Japanese Mortars and Graters

Exploring Traditional Japanese Kitchen Tools - Suribachi & Oroshi-ki

Have you ever used a Japanese Suribachi (mortars) or Oroshi-ki (graters) in your kitchen?

These tools are essential to Japanese cooking, serving for ingredients like grinding sesame seeds and grating radishes. They’ve been vital in supporting Japan’s culinary culture for centuries.

Recently, I had the opportunity to visit Motoshige Seito-sho, a specialized pottery shop located in Shimane Prefecture, famous for crafting these tools from traditional Iwami-yaki pottery. Inspired by their beautiful and unique designs, I sat down with the artisan to learn more about these iconic Japanese kitchen tools and how to use them.

What is Suribachi :

“Suri” means to grind, “Bachi” means a bowl. The Suribachi has been used since the Asuka period (roughly 7th century) and became widely popular during the Kamakura and Muromachi periods. Back then, these mortars didn’t have the ridged interior they do today, but they were used to grind grains with simple earthenware bowls. Over time, the mortar evolved to include ridges, making it easier to grind ingredients more efficiently. The companion to the Suribachi is the Surikogi - a wooden pestle used to crush ingredients. These bowls are typically made from durable, dense clay to withstand the pressure needed for grinding.

Grinding food in a Suribachi enhances the flavor and texture of the ingredients, creating a smoother mouthfeel and blending ingredients more effectively. In Japanese cuisine, it's not just limited to grinding sesame seeds, Suribachi are often used to mash yam potatoes, tofu, beans, and nuts as well.

Motoshige’s Suribachi are crafted using local clay from the Iwami region in Shimane Prefecture, known for its high density. After shaping the bowl, ridges are added to the interior before it is dried, glazed, and fired at high temperatures. The most distinctive feature here is the absence of uneven ridges. The key is in the careful application of pressure when creating the ridges, and I was particularly struck by the sight of the craftsmen carefully carving each ridge by hand. The bowl itself is wide and rounded to prevent food from spilling out, making it a practical yet aesthetically pleasing tool that can double as a serving dish.

What is Oroshi-ki :

When you think of a grater, you might imagine a cheese grater, but in Japan, the Oroshi-ki is used for various ingredients such as ginger, daikon radish, wasabi and more. “Oroshi” means grating, “Ki” for a tool. Historically, records from the Edo period indicate that square metal graters were used to grate Daikon to accompany Tempura as a garnish to prevent food poisoning.

There are several materials used to make Oroshi-ki: stainless steel, rough-grain wood, shark skin, and ceramic, each offering different textures for grated ingredients. For example, wooden graters (Oni-oroshi) create chunkier results, while ceramic graters tend to produce finely grated ingredients with a fluffy texture.

Motoshige’s Oroshi-ki is made from durable ceramic with sharp, uneven teeth. These are embedded into the ceramic using a unique technique where the teeth are first crushed from a ceramic block and then inserted into the grater. This method ensures long-lasting sharpness and effective grating. Being ceramic, it’s also easy to clean and doesn’t absorb food odors or colors, making it a great tool for daily use.

About Motoshige Seito-sho :

Founded in 1925, Motoshige Seito-sho originally produced water jars using local Iwami-yaki clay. These jars were sold to ships sailing along the Sea of Japan to store fresh water. In the early 1980s, Motoshige shifted its focus to crafting Suribachi as there was a shortage of them in Japan. The Oroshi-ki was introduced in 2015 after five years of development, adding another versatile tool to their collection.

Surrounded by hills filled with mounds of clay used in their products, the factory sits in a beautiful natural environment, where the artisans continue to carry on the rich tradition of Japanese pottery.

Cooking Ideas by Mr. Motoshige:

Tartar Sauce: Mash hard-boiled eggs to make a quick tartar sauce. Add eggs in Suribachi directly, poke the egg yolk in a few spots with a toothpick, microwave it, add seasonings, and mix in the bowl. (below)
Yam Potato Dish: Crush yam in Suribachi and mix it with kimchi and natto for a simple yet flavorful side dish.
Onion Sauce: Grate onions with the Oroshi-ki to create a sweet onion sauce that pairs well with various dishes. (below)

Lastly:

Before visiting Motoshige Seito-sho, my only experience with a Suribachi was grinding sesame seeds, and I hadn’t thought beyond using a grater for ginger. Learning about the ancient wisdom behind these tools and seeing how skilled artisans continue to create them made me reflect on their potential. While modern kitchen gadgets are readily available, these traditional tools are filled with history and craftsmanship. After this visit, I gained countless ideas for future recipe development, and I’m excited to explore the versatility of these timeless kitchen staples.