Family-Friendly Travel Guide To Tsuwano
Nestled in the scenic valleys of Shimane Prefecture, Tsuwano is a quaint town rich in history, culture, and natural beauty. Often referred to as “Little Kyoto,” Tsuwano offers a blend of historical sites, stunning landscapes, and unique experiences that make it a perfect destination for families. Let me share my 3 days experience with my little kids in summer 2024, this will be your ultimate guide to exploring Tsuwano!
Tsuwano
”Little Kyoto” in the Western Japan
Getting to Tsuwano
Tsuwano is a picturesque town, also known as “little Kyoto” located in the western part of Shimane Prefecture, Japan. It's nestled in a narrow valley surrounded by mountains, making it an ideal destination for nature lovers and history enthusiasts.
It lies near the border of Yamaguchi Prefecture, making it easily accessible from Shin-Yamaguchi Station, or from Hamada city or Masuda city in Shimane Prefecture.
Train Access:
The JR Yamaguchi Line connects Tsuwano with major stations like Shin-Yamaguchi and Hamada via the JR West Japan line.
If you're lucky, you can ride or see the iconic SL Yamaguchi steam locomotive (details in below), which stops at Tsuwano Station on select days.Driving Access:
If you're exploring by car, Tsuwano is reachable via local roads from Shimane and Yamaguchi prefectures. The journey offers beautiful countryside views. It’s about one hour drive from Hamada city.
1. SL Yamaguchi Steam Locomotive
One of the most iconic experiences in Tsuwano is spotting the SL Yamaguchi, a vintage steam train that runs between Shin-Yamaguchi Station and Tsuwano Station on select days.
We were lucky to see the train roaring through the town, its dark smoke billowing into the air and its loud whistle echoing in the valley. Locals and a few tourists often gather to snap photos of this nostalgic marvel.
To catch a glimpse or take a ride, make sure to check the SL Yamaguchi train schedule in advance!
Tips: Arrive early to secure a good photo spot or enjoy the view as it rolls into Tsuwano. If riding, book tickets in advance, especially during peak seasons.
Duration: The ride from Shin-Yamaguchi to Tsuwano takes about 2 hours. If you are just taking photos, the train stays at the Tsuwano Station for about 30 minutes before departing.
Access: The train stops at Tsuwano Station, conveniently located in the heart of town.
2. Chair Lift to Tsuwano Castle Ruins
Adventure awaits with the chair lift from Taikodani Inari Shrine, taking you partway up the mountain towards the Tsuwano Castle Ruins.
The ride itself is an exciting journey, offering breathtaking views of the lush greenery. From the end of the lift, it’s a 15-minute hike to the top. While we didn’t make it to the ruins, our kids (6 and 8 years old at that time) loved the thrill of the chair lift and the serene surroundings.
Tips: Wear comfortable shoes if you plan to hike up to the ruins. The chair lift closes during bad weather, so check conditions in advance.
Duration: 1 - 2 hours ( Chair lift ride: 5 minutes each way, hike to the ruins: about 15 minutes one way)
Access: The chair lift station is a short walk from Taikodani Inari Shrine (see below for details)
3. Taikodani Inari Shrine
Did you know Tsuwano is home to one of Japan’s top five Inari shrines?
Built in the 18th century to protect the castle from evil spirits, Taikodani Inari Shrine boasts over 1,000 vivid red Torii gates leading up a zigzag path to the main hall. The peaceful setting, combined with its cultural significance, makes it a must-visit.
Here’s what makes it unique:
The kanji for "Inari" here is written as 稲成 (granting wishes), unlike the popular 稲荷 (rich harvest) in Kyoto.
You can offer Abura-age (fried tofu pouch), 100 yen each to the fox statues, believed to be messengers of the god Inari.
Tips: If you’ve taken the chair lift, the shrine is just a few minutes away on foot.
Duration: 1 - 2 hours. (To climb to the shrine: 20 minutes, exploration takes about 30 minutes or more)
Access: The shrine is located near the chair lift station and is about a 10-minute drive from Tsuwano Station.
4. Anno Mitsumasa Museum
After a delicious lunch at Minoya Restaurant (this is our must-go restaurant while visiting Tsuwano: visited last time, too) we explored the Anno Mitsumasa Museum. This charming museum celebrates the work of Anno Mitsumasa, a renowned local artist and children’s book illustrator who won the Hans Christian Andersen Award.
Highlights include a replica of a traditional Japanese classroom - our littles were very excited to see the Japanese version of classroom for their first time, were amazed how different and neat it was). Also some displays of Anno’s beautifully illustrated works cannot be skipped.
Sharing this nostalgic experience with my kids was heartwarming.
Tips: Great for families - kids will love seeing the old-style classroom. Check for temporary exhibits showcasing other works by local artists.
Duration: 1 hour.
Access: Located near the town center, the museum is a one minute walk from Tsuwano Station.
5. Koi Feeding at Komeya
A hidden gem just two streets from Tsuwano Station, Komeya is a unique spot where you can feed colorful Koi fish.
Step into the shop and head to the backyard, where a small pond is teeming with over 400 koi. For just 100 yen, you can purchase a bag of crackers to feed them. This quaint experience delighted our kids, and the historic setting added a layer of charm.
Tips: Bring small coins for the fish food. (my kids wanted to feed many times!) Also, respect the shopkeeper’s space; bow politely before heading to the backyard. You may enter the shop, and tell them you are there for Koi feeding.
Duration: 20–30 minutes.
Access: Two streets from Tsuwano Station, look for the shop with old rice carts displayed outside.
6. Tsuwano Catholic Church
Built in 1931 by a German priest, Tsuwano Catholic Church combines Gothic architecture with traditional tatami flooring, making it a rare and serene sight.
Next door, the Otome Toge Exhibition Room delves into the history of “Hidden Christians” and their perseverance during persecution. This spot is both educational and spiritual, offering a glimpse into an often-overlooked part of Japanese history.
Tips: Visit during the early morning for quiet contemplation. Combine this visit with a walk through Tsuwano’s Tonomachi area, known for its historic streets.
Duration: 30 minutes to 1 hour.
Access: A short walk from the Tonomachi area in Tsuwano’s town center.
7. Accommodations
I have two cozy accommodation recommendations:
Komien
Looking for a unique place to stay? Consider Komien, a cozy inn that initially specializes in Zaracha, a local tea (pea leaves) with a smoky aroma, enjoyed since feudal times.
Here, they offer a cafe area on the first flour, where you can pair different Zaracha blends with fresh pastries like canelés and cheesecakes. And they rent out their entire second floor as a place to stay up to 6 people. This spacious space include two bed rooms, one large Tatami mat room as a living room and dining area, small kitchen with refrigerator and a portable stove and kitchenwares, one shower room and bathroom. The owner couple was very friendly, so helpful for all of my questions about this accommodation to about the Tsuwano town. Kids loved the Tatami living room, they enjoyed the little moment like reading books they just purchased from the Anno museum (above), or playing games they had.
I highly recommend to book through AirBnb or direct message to them.
Yutorelo Onsen
No trip to Japan is complete without a visit to an Onsen! Yutorelo Onsen is the only hot spring in Tsuwano, offering both accommodation and public baths (1,000 yen per entry). Since we were staying at Komien, we visited there for the public bath.
The highlight of this Japanese hot spring is the open-air bath with stunning views of Mt. Aono. You may also hear the train coming by and spot them once a while. My kids were particularly excited to spot Koi fish swimming in their own pond right at the entrance, making it a relaxing yet family-friendly stop. To book this hotel, click this link.
Plan Your Trip to Tsuwano
Tsuwano is more than a scenic destination; it’s an immersive journey into Japan’s history, art, and culture. Whether you're riding the SL Yamaguchi, feeding Koi fish, or walking through the Torii gates of Taikodani Inari Shrine, Tsuwano promises unforgettable memories for travelers of all ages.
Pack your bags, and let this charming “Little Kyoto” enchant you and your family!
